The British came to Madras (modern Chennai) in 1639. By the 18th century, they controlled large parts of the South Eastern coast of India. The Carnatic region, though was ruled independently by the Nawab of Arcot, Muhammad Ali Khan Wallajah. He became great friends with the British in the 1750s, after they helped him acquire larger territories by defeating his rivals during the Siege of Arcot in 1751. But everything has a price: the British demanded exorbitant rates for their ‘protection’. £160,000 per year to be exact.

The best way to reach Sadras, is to get lost on your way from Chennai to Mahabalipuram or Pondicherry. I, on the other hand, have lived near Sadras Fort all my life. For years, I passed by its walls on my way to and from school. The 17th century fort, was just part of the background. Visiting it never struck me as something to do

The sun may rise in Chennai, when it will, but morning only arrives with the first whiff of coffee. Chennai’s affair with filter coffee or Kaapi is old news. Tamilians met coffee somewhere around the 19th century, fell head over heels and have stayed very much in love since. The mighty bean, despite what some coffee lovers will tell you, is not indigenous to India